![]() However, often the joist often sits on a wider section of the wall below floor level. So if you have access from below via the sub floor void you can stuff from there. If they are built in to the wall then the floor boards probably extend to quite close to the wall, then the studding is above that. If not we may have to blast the space with a wood chip boiler or log boiler (wood chip supplier and plenty of logs on the island).Ĭheck how the floor joists are supported. If we can get insulation levels up we will consider GSHP. We will probably use £3000-3500 this year on oil. We are alos topping up attic and floor insulation and the house has DG fitted in 2001. ![]() The walls are in good nick and I haven’t detected any damp yet. If a moisture barrier is needed could one be painted/added from the inside during the decorating process? What happens at the top and bottom of the wall? How would you stop floor voids filling up with insulation? Is there any risk of condensation (dew point) forming on joist ends with the bead insulation in situ? Is there any danger of water ingress from outside to the inside? Would the beads still allow for sufficient ventilation within the cavity? Has anybody had any experience with this technique or know of insulation companies who do? This in theory would still allow 10% air movement around he cavity and shouldn’t have any issues with water absorption like blown cellulose or glass fibre Outside the house is dressed granite stone so EWI is out there as we are in a conservation area.Īn idea I am trying to get advice on is whether we could inject carbon bead insulation at lower pressure from the inside to fill the 3-4’’ cavity behind the lath and plaster. There are lots of period details in the 10 and 12ft high rooms, which include some v elaborate cornice, which we want to preserve if possible. Internally is lined with a lath and plaster on 3-4’' studs. ![]() Its a solid walled 1840's Victorian house. We have just moved into our house in the inner Hebrides.
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